A central city square, whether imbued with tradition or modernity, becomes a stage for a large-scale gathering. Dressed in black, a group of men perform a ritualized movement, rhythmically beating their chests or backs in time with the music of cymbals and drums. Their slow, synchronized procession car- ries black, green, and red flags emblazoned with the name of their Imam. In glaring juxtaposition, another corner of the square is overflowing with com- munal hospitality. Tents offer hot tea, sweet saffron drinks, and votive meals such as rice and Qaymah, a meat and bean paste, to the assembled populace. Meanwhile, within a nearby building—a city hall, theater, or perhaps a hus- seiniyya, a religious center—a significant portion of the population gathers to listen to lamentations recounting the martyrdom of their Imam.